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page 1 │ page 2 │ page 3 │ page 4 │ page 5 │ page 6 │ page 7 │ page 8IntroductionOver the past 25 years Taiwan, a nation well accustomed to social and political change, has been witness to the genesis of a new and vibrant language. A change not so much through the spoken word, but a change as seen in the language of food, cuisine and the nation’s daily food-habits. E.N Anderson, in his work, The Food of China noted, with some affection that, “the Chinese are united by an interest in and commitment to good cooking and good food.” It is no coincidence that the people of Taiwan are now privy to some of the most dramatic changes in traditional food-ways that the world has seen to date. Dramatic not only in the experimentation with new foods and tastes, but with the speed with which such changes are occurring. 2.1 Taiwan’s history In spite of the ubiquitous “Made in Taiwan” label, it would appear that those outside of South-east Asia might have a limited understanding of Taiwan’s past history. In order to better understand the significance of the changes in food-ways in Taiwan over the last 30 years, an overview understanding of the past three hundred and fifty years of Taiwan’s development would appear to be an imperative.
2.1.1 Area map of South-East Asia: Taiwan
Dutch Period
Taywan (Manchu, Ming Dynasty era)
Manchu (Ching Dynasty era)
Japanese Era
Republic of Taiwan era
Research relating to Taiwan’s history reveals a tumultuous past, it is therefore most appropriate that several sources be cited as references. The Reed Institute has proved to be an invaluable resource for the study of nineteenth-century travelogues, and to provide a series of memoirs from the investigative research of Missionaries, doctors and government officials sent from England to administrate in Hong Kong and navigate the surrounding areas. 2.2 Earliest inhabitants The following information is a direct quote from an Australian cultural and business web site. The information contained therein was composed and published by the Government Information Office of Taiwan, also known in abbreviated form as, GIO. “Taiwan’s first inhabitants left no written records of their origins. Anthropological evidence suggests that Taiwan’s indigenous people were proto-Malayans. Their vocabulary and grammar belong to the Malayan- Polynesian family of Indonesia and they once shared many Indonesian customs such as tattooing, using identical names for father and son, gerontocracy, head-hunting, spirit worship and indoor burials. Over five hundred pre-historic sites in Taiwan, including many dwelling areas, tombs, shell mounds and megaliths have provided more and sometimes contradictory clues as to the origin of Taiwan’s aboriginal race. A majority of the pre-historic artefacts unearthed to this date (e.g., flat axes, red unglazed pottery, decorated bronze implements, megalithic structures and glass beads) indicate an Indonesian connection. Other items (e.g., painted red pottery, red glazed pottery, pottery tripods, stone halberds and arrow heads) however would suggest that Taiwan’s earliest settlers might have come from the Chinese Mainland. Other questions remain unanswered. Were these pre-historic remains, left by the ancestors of today’s modern Taiwanese aborigine? The question is a complex one. Some anthropologists have suggested that the pre-historic cultural remains uncovered so far have no proven connection to contemporary indigenous cultures in Taiwan.” Although the true origins of the indigenous aborigines of Taiwan remains a mystery, what can be confirmed is that prior to the Portuguese discovery of the island in 1544, the Han people from the Chinese mainland and certain tribes of indigenous people were already well established on the island of Taiwan. In the sixteenth century, Han people from China’s coastal provinces of Fujian and Guangdong began immigrating to Taiwan in large numbers. This group of early Han immigrants consisted mainly of Southern Fujianese and Hakka, adding to the aboriginal population that had populated the island from earlier times. Today these two groups represent 85 % of the population on the island of Taiwan, with the Fujianese outnumbering the Hakka by a ratio of three to one. When the Kuomintang government relocated to Taipei in 1949, a new influx of Han immigrants began to arrive in Taiwan. 2.4 Early Foods of China Anderson, (1988) opens the narrative in his book claiming that China’s geography must rate as, “one of the worlds most dramatic, from a height of 29,141 feet (7,815m) at the top of the world the relief drops to the depths of sub-aerial depressions at 900 feet below sea level, all the while showcasing a land of great contrast, from abundant tropical rainforests of the south, to the northern dust bowl of a bitterly cold Inner Mongolian desert.” In the ancient world, Chinese nutritionists held high court in the Middle Kingdom, advising the sitting Emperor of the people’s dietary requirements. Their advice consequently shaped the structure of the people’s daily diet according to their belief that food characteristics (dry / moist, hot / cold) should mirror those of the body. Over centuries, the Chinese have developed a complex and rather ancient science of nutrition. During the Chou dynasty the Emperor prescribed that nutritionists be attached to the court as part of the highest class of medical personnel. The nutritionist in turn introduced the Western dietary tradition of “dry/moist, hot/cold” that is now considered a nutritional culinary blueprint. Anderson also observed the relationship between food and health, and wrote, “When faced with poor health, diet is inevitably the said offender and the first to change.” These observations clearly illustrate the relative centrality of thought afforded to food in ancient Chinese culture. Unlike some of the western societies, which have allowed the rules of nutrition to slip and slide and have opted for a more gratifying diet regardless of nutritional warnings, the Chinese by and large, still appear to adhere to the gastronomic wisdom of their ancestors. 2.4.1 Agricultural China It has been proposed that China can be separated into five large and distinct geographical realms; North China: Includes the zone of dry farming, the Yellow river plains and surrounding hills. Northeast China (Manchuria): Boasts sub-arctic forests with freezing cold winters, although the region is blessed with fertile river valleys. Central Asian China (Inner Mongolia): The deserts and semi-deserts of Sinjiang province are vast wastelands with a climate too cold and dry for much besides nomadic herding and experimental irrigated farming. South China (Covers the broad expanse of the whole southern region from the Yangtze southwards): This area enjoys the greater portion of China’s arable land with an accessible coast, making fish and seafood a significant portion of the diet, and with the hilly and mountainous terrain providing the people’s staple food, rice. Tibet (includes areas of Szechuan and Yunan as well as the Tibet province): Anderson categorises this area to be one where, “the hopelessness of subsistence through arable land use is all too apparent, the area being that cold and dry that it is virtually uninhabitable.” 2.5 Regional Cuisines (China) mixed grains while those from the south prefer rice, however as Anderson points out, rice is now enjoyed throughout all of China. Fujian gastronomic influence typically commands a wide audience and includes slightly more land area than its geographical boundaries would suggest. The researcher suggests that these culinary borders may be extended to include the island of Hainan in the Fujianese culinary repertoire. The dish Anderson is referring to (by way of an extended culinary border) is the popular regional favourite; Hainan chicken rice, a dish of poached whole chicken served with rice, pickled cucumber and soup made from chicken broth. Hainan chicken showcases rice through a distinctive cooking style, quite unlike other rice based dishes found in the Chinese Mainland. Although chicken is the focus of this Hainanese favourite, the accompanying rice is also a major selling point. The pilaf cooking technique employed in the cooking of Hainan rice (according to Larousse Gastronomique) is quite the opposite of how rice is cooked throughout the rest of China, where the cooking method is to steam, dry, then fry. For Hainan Chicken, the rice is always fried first and then steamed as for a pilaf, giving the rice its unmistakeable nutty flavour. |
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